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Golden Eagle at Riggindale

Date of Walk: 18/6/2004
Mountains Climbed: -
Length of Walk: 2.8 miles
Starting Point: Mardale Head Car Park Grid Ref: NY 469108
Route: Mardale Head Car Park, The Rigg, Riggindale, RSPB Observation Point , Riggindale, , The Rigg, Mardale Head Car Park.

We had been keen since the first time we came here to see the only Golden Eagles in England, but like so many things, we had never quite got round to it. So when we heard back in the winter that the female had died, we realised that we really must make a trip to Riggindale a priority before it is too late.

But when we got up on Friday morning, the weather was absolutely dreadful and we were seriously wondering if we had chosen the right day for this! Nevertheless, we do not get many opportunities, so with that in mind, we set off to Mardale Head, hoping that the weather would improve.

This was our first ever visit to the Far Eastern Fells, and the only way to describe the way things looked as we stopped to look at the Haweswater Dam was "grim"!

Haweswater Dam The Haweswater Dam in the pouring rain

On a wider road we might just have turned round and forgotten about it, but as the road to Mardale Head Car Park is quite narrow we carried on driving.

When we arrived at the Car Park, there was only one other car, and that had RSPB written on it. The people in the car, which we assumed were the wardens, showed no sign of getting out, so we followed their example and stayed in our car, waiting to see if there was any chance of it clearing. David suggested that he thought he could see a fell somewhere in the distance, which was encouraging, so with that we decided to get our sandwiches out and hopefully the rain would stop by the time we finished them.

Mardale Ill Bell Mardale Ill Bell not visible in the pouring rain from the car park at Mardale Head
The word sandwich had no sooner been uttered before a female Chaffinch landed on the wing mirror, staring intensely at me until I relinquished the crust through the window.
Chaffinch A female Chaffinch thinks we should share our sandwiches with her and her family
It would be an exaggeration to say the rain and mist had cleared by the time we finished our sandwiches, but it was certainly much brighter and not raining so heavily, which was encouraging, so we decided to wait another 15 minutes before we made a final decision on what to do. As it was, it was obvious that no self-respecting Eagle would be flying in this weather, but at least things were improving.
The Rigg The Rigg from Mardale Head Car Park
Harter Fell Harter Fell becomes visible as the rain clears

I managed to find some more crusts for a resident Robin as we waited, and then finally we could see some fells around us, and the rain had subsided to a light drizzle.

Robin at Mardale Head A Robin comes along to see if we have any sandwiches left
Mardale Ill Bell The cloud lifts from Mardale Ill Bell as the rain eases off
Just as we agreed to give it a go, we saw the RSPB men get out of their car and walk off in the direction of the Observation Hut, so we got our things together and followed them towards the Rigg.
Footbridge at Mardale Head A very wet footbridge at Mardale Head
The Rigg Looking towards the Rigg from the footbridge
Wild Thyme Wild Thyme by the side of the path
Birdsfoot Trefoil Wet Birdsfoot Trefoil

The path goes round Rough Crag, behind the Rigg and into Riggindale, which is where the RSPB Observation Hut is situated.

The walk to the Hut was a wonderful way of getting acquainted with this beautiful, remote part of the Lake District, and we had frequent stops to admire the views, the clouds having now lifted from the fell tops.

Behind the Rigg Behind the Rigg - David still has the umbrella up!
Riggindale Riggindale, walking towards the RSPB Observation Point
Haweswater Haweswater from Riggindale
The remoteness of the valley makes it a haven for all sorts of wildlife, and we were pleasantly surprised to see a beautiful male Redstart just above us in a tree, singing merrily.
Redstart A Redstart watches us go by
Riggindale The rain has stopped and the cloud is clearing as we approach the RSPB Observation Hut

As we reached the RSPB Hut, the wardens had just set up a couple of telescopes and they told us that the Eagle was sitting on Rough Crag and they had just focused in on him. We had hoped we might get a glimpse of him if we were very lucky, but we had never dreamt of getting such a magnificent view the minute we arrived. He stayed there for ages, giving us ample opportunity to observe him, before he took to the sky, soaring high above Rough Crag and High Street.

What a magnificent bird! We obviously knew he was going to be big, but it is not until you see an Eagle in real life that you realise just how huge he is.

Eagle flying The Eagle dwarfs the Ravens and other birds as he circles above Rough Crag
Riggindale Riggindale from the RSPB Observation Hut, with High Street behind and Kidsty Pike on the right
Rough Crag Rough Crag

While the Eagle was soaring, some Ring Ouzels were calling below Rough Crag, but in spite of our best efforts and the help of one of the RSPB wardens, we did not manage to see them.

Eventually, the Eagle got fed up with soaring and landed by a solitary tree below the summit of Kidsty Pike, where he stayed until we left.

Kidsty Pike Kidsty Pike - the Eagle landed by the single tree below the summit
By the time we made our way back, the sun was out and it was a glorious day, with glorious views all around.
Haweswater Haweswater now in sun as we walk back towards the Rigg
Riggindale Looking back to Riggindale
The Rigg The dense trees of the Rigg
Canada Geese on Haweswater Canada Geese in a line below on Haweswater
Harter Fell Harter Fell from the path to Mardale Head from the Rigg
Spot the Common Lizard Spot the Common Lizard
Small Heath A Small Heath comes out to enjoy some sunshine
Tormentil A small Tormentil flower in the grass
Selfheal Some colourful Selfheal
And by the time we got back to the Car Park, we were fully convinced that we had some excellent walking to look forward to in this end of the Lake District in years to come.
Mardale Ill Bell Mardale Ill Bell
Mardale Head Car Park Back at the Car Park at Mardale Head
We could not resist stopping along the road and taking in the views of this wonderful part of the Lake District one last time.
The Rigg View of The Rigg with Harter Fell behind and Rough Crag to the right from the road alongside Haweswater
Riggindale Riggindale from the road alongside Haweswater
Haweswater Dam The Haweswater Dam is now in sunshine
On our way to Mardale in the morning, we had seen a signpost for Shap Abbey. Fascinated, we made a brief detour on the way back and found some impressive ruins of an old Abbey - another of Henry VIII's casualties.
Shap Abbey The Ruins of Shap Abbey
Shap Abbey The grounds where the Abbey used to stand, with the farm behind
Shap Abbey Shap Abbey
The Abbey stands by the River Lowther in a very picturesque setting.
Monkey Flowers Monkey Flowers by the River Lowther at Shap Abbey
Monkey Flowers Monkey Flowers

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