Our previuos two walks had almost
completed our Top 10, with only Bowfell left to be climbed. Today's
planned walk had been Allen Crags and Esk Pike, with the intention
of climbing Bowfell from Langdale in September.
I was aware that David had been studying the maps and pondering
over the proximity of Bowfell to our next walk, but he had been
too diplomatic to suggest any extension, especially with the added
walk to Styhead Tarn and Sprinkling Tarn, which we had decided on
Tuesday, so as we set out from Seathwaite yet again. nothing was
said on the matter.
Today was raining before we even got out of the car, and even the
resident cockerel had too much sense to be outdoors. |
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Sour Milk Gill in Seathwaite |
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Rain towards Seathwaite Fell |
The first part of the route, up
to Styhead Tarn, was the same as our walk to Great Gable, and the
conditions were quite similar too.
The only real difference was that David finally decided to use
the footbridge in the valley rather than cross the stream. |
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David finally uses the footbridge |
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Stockley Bridge |
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The path to Taylorgill Force and Styhead Pass from
Stockley Bridge |
David had found a possible lunch
spot near Styhead Gill for today's walk when we walked here on Tuesday,
but it was really only suitable if the weather was dry, which it
was not today, so we shall have to save that spot for another, better,
day.
Having said that, the mist was clearing much
faster than on Tuesday, and we could almost see Great End and the
Gables by the time we reached Styhead Tarn. |
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Looking towards the Band on Great End from Styhead
Tarn with the path to sprinkling Tarn in the depression between Great
End and Seathwaite Fell on the left |
Having passed Styhead Tarn, our
route took a different direction as we turned left before the Stretcher
Box and followed the path running through the depression between
Seathwaite Fell and Great End to Sprinkling Tarn.
The rain had also more or less stopped by now, so we sat down on
a suitable rock looking back to Styhead Tarn and had our lunch there
instead.
This route gave us good views of Lingmell and Piers Gill, and as
we climbed higher on the path, we also had good views of the Gables
behind Styhead Tarn - a magnificent sight. |
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Styhead Tarn, looking back towards Borrowdale, from
our lunch spot by the path to Sprinkling Tarn |
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Lingmell and Piers Gill |
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Great Gable and Green Gable with Windy Gap and Styhead
Tarn from the path to Sprinkling Tarn |
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The Path to Sprinkling Tarn |
| Then we got to Sprinkling Tarn. This
tarn has always fascinated me, and it was absolutely wonderful, standing
by the edge and looking all around at the glorious views, not least
the imposing bulk of Great End behind. |
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Sprinkling Tarn looking towards Seathwaite Fell |
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Great End from Sprinkling Tarn |
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Sprinkling Tarn |
| From Sprinkling Tarn Allen Crags,
our first fell of the day, is visible straight ahead. As we had noticed
on Sunday, having climbed this high, there is not a great deal more
ascent required to reach the summit, and with this in mind we set
off in that direction with a spring in our step (slight exaggeration
there!!!). |
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The path to Ruddy Gill, with Allen Crags coming into
view in the background |
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Looking towards Glaramara across a small tarn |
By the time we got closer to Allen
Crags, there was no cloud on the summit, and it was lifting fast
from Esk Pike, our second summit of the day.
We kept following the path past Ruddy Gill to below the Cross Shelter,
where a junction offers the option of turning left to Allen Crags'
summit, carrying on straight ahead to Angle Tarn and Stake Pass,
or turning right to Esk Hause. |
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Allen Crags straight ahead |
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The cloud lifts from Esk Pike, as we walk along the
path to Allen Crags |
| And by the time we took the left turn
for Allen Crags, Bowfell was also tantalisingly visible beyond Esk
Pike, for once out of cloud and almost beckoning us to visit it. |
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Bowfell and Esk Pike clearing of mist on the ascent
of Allen Crags |
| The path to the summit of Allen Crags is crumbly, but
not difficult, and it is not far from the main path so the summit
is easily gained from here. |
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Ascent of Allen Crags |
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David at the summit of Allen Crags |
| Although there was never any threat
of cloud on the summit itself, as we looked around, the clouds kept
changing the visibility all around us, with the Langdale Pikes coming
in and out of cloud, and the Gables and Great End likewise. Glaramara
never quite came out of the cloud, but luckily for us Esk Pike remained
clear all the time. |
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High Raise and the Langdale Pikes from Allen Crags'
Summit |
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Glaramara still in cloud from Allen Crags' Summit |
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Sprinkling Tarn from the summit of Allen Crags |
| From Allen Crags, we set off back
to the path from Sprinkling Tarn, this time continuing straight across
it, heading for Esk Hause. |
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Bowfell from the descent to Esk Hause |
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Esk Hause, with the Scafells in cloud behind |
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Esk Hause and Great End |
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The Langdale Pikes and Rossett Pike from the path
to Esk Hause |
| By the time we got to Esk Hause, we
finally saw what Ill Crag looked like, and it was obvious then that
it was a long walk out from the path to the summit. |
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Ill Crag comes out of the cloud |
| From Esk Hause, we turned left, in
the opposite direction to Sunday's walk to Calf Cove, and started
ascending Esk Pike. |
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Esk Hause |
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Allen Crags from the ascent of Esk Pike |
| Esk Pike has a very rocky, and what
I can only describe as an unusual summit. The final part to get to
it involves clambering over a lot of boulders, and probably the best
way of describing it is to say that it is different! |
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Esk Pike's summit ahead |
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David on Esk Pike's Summit |
From Esk Pike, Bowfell really is
very close, as the crow flies (though as anyone familiar with the
Lakeland fells knows, the proverbial crow usually flies a lot straighter
than than the paths to the summit!).
I could see David studying it, completely free from cloud for
once, as we admired the views, and after thinking to myself for
a few minutes about what my chances were of making it back to Seathwaite
today if we went on, I decided that it was not fair to deny David
his final Top 10 when he was so close to it, and I asked him if
he wanted to go on.
After being interrogated for a few minutes on my general state
of health, and how tired I was, I managed to convince him that there
was an above average chance that I would make it down again.
There was absolutely no stopping him now and he was off like a
rocket to Ore Gap! |
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David makes a dash for Ore Gap with Bowfell behind
before I get a chance to change my mind |
| Ore Gap really is very red. I don't
expect many people who are lost are in any doubt where they are when
they get there. |
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Ore Gap |
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Allen Crags from Ore Gap |
| True enough, the aforementioned crow
does not take the same route to Bowfell as we had to, and besides
the going is quite rough, so it took a lot longer than the relative
distance would make you think when you look across from Esk Pike,
but having set my stall out there was no turning back now. |
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The ascent of Bowfell from Ore Gap - Bowfell's
summit is on the right |
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Ascent of Bowfell |
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Esk Pike and Allen Crags from the ascent of Bowfell |
| And it only gets rougher, the closer
you get to the top. I am not sure if there is a path, but we didn't
find it. It was every man (and woman) for themselves as we scrambled
across the boulders to the summit, which we could never quite see. |
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The final climb to the summit of Bowfell |
And then suddenly, there it was!
David had taken a slightly different route to me, and when I arrived,
he was sitting by the summit cairn, looking incredibly pleased with
himself.
I am not sure what I expected Bowfell's summit to be like, but
whatever it was, it was nothing like I had imagined. This is not
a good or a bad thing, it was just different, which surprised me
a little because I have been fascinated with Bowfell for a long
time, and have studied pictures and maps of it lots of times. Whenever
I have passed it and looked up at it, I have always got the feeling
that it was almost growling at me, usually with the summit in cloud,
willing me to try and climb it. David says I am getting fanciful
in my old age, which is probably true. But there you have it, I
do get this affinity with mountains, which David finds slightly
worrying and thinks I ought to perhaps mention to my doctor, and
Bowfell is a prime example of this slightly odd personality disorder
on my part. |
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The top 10 complete! David at the summit of Bowfell |
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Crinkle Crags from Bowfell's Summit, with Pike O'Blisco
on the left |
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The Langdale Pikes from the summit of Bowfell |
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The Langstrath Valley and High Raise from Bowfell's
Summit |
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Scafell Pike, Ill Crag and Great End from Bowfell's
Summit |
| The way back down to Ore Gap is rough, to say the least,
and I was very tired. The first part of the descent requires short-legged
species, such as myself, to use hands as well as legs to lower oneself
(unless, of course, I missed the path again, which is a distinct possibility). |
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Descending from Bowfell with Allen Crags behind |
| After a long, long time we were back
at Ore Gap. At the small summit cairn is a sign. David had a look
at it and told me that it has a map with an arrow saying "You
are here". Now I have never seen this anywhere else in the fells
and, unless David was having me on and it said something entirely
different, I am surprised that they should have such a map here of
all places. The ground is so red that I would have thought it difficult
to think you were anywhere else. Now, if only there was such a map
on the Dodds, I could understand it!!! |
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David looking at the sign on Ore Gap (it says "You
are here") |
From Ore Gap we took a right turn
down past Angle Tarn to the path between Allen Crags and Stake Pass.
I was interested to see Angle Tarn in clear weather, as our only
previous visit to it had been on the walking holiday in 2001, on
a misty and rainy day, and there had been no views at all, in fact
we could only just see the tarn.
Had I not been so tired, I would have loved to
have taken a detour to the tarn. |
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Angle Tarn comes into view, with Rossett Pike to the
right and High Raise and the Langdale Pikes behind |
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Allen Crags from the path between Ore Gap and the
path to Stake Pass |
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Angle Tarn with Rossett Pike and the Langdale Pikes
behind |
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Angle Tarn and Hanging Knotts |
| When we reached the Stake Pass path,
we took a left turn back towards Allen Crags. I had a nasty surprise
when I realised that I had overlooked (or sub-consciously suppressed?!)
some countour lines before Allen Crags on the path, and by now I was
very tired indeed. I lost count of the breaks required to make it
to the top - I was that deflated by my discovery! |
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The steep part of the path back to the cross shelter
below Esk Hause, with Great End behind and Allen Crags to the right |
| But where there is a will, there is
a way, and eventually I was very pleased to catch sight of the Cross
Shelter below Esk Hause, from where the going got much more level,
and would eventually start to descent. |
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The Cross Shelter below Esk Hause |
| Back at the junction with the path to Allen Crags, we
re-traced our steps past Ruddy Gill to Sprinkling Tarn and back to
Seathwaite along the route we had taken on Tuesday to Great Gable. |
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Great Gable with Green Gable in mist and Sprinkling
Tarn coming into view on the right from Ruddy Gill |
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Sprinkling Tarn |
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By Sprinkling Tarn |
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By Styhead Tarn |
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Great End, Broad Crag, Scafell Pike (in cloud) and
Lingmell from Styhead Tarn |
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Styhead Gill |
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Seathwaite and Borrowdale from Styhead Gill above
Taylorgill Force |
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Seathwaite from above Taylorgill Force |
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Returning to Seathwaite |
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Seathwaite Farm - the tea shop was well and truly
closed (and the owners probably tucked up in bed) by the time we got
back... |