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Allen Crags, Esk Pike and Bowfell

Date of Walk: 17/6/2004
Mountains Climbed: Allen Crags, Esk Pike, Bowfell
Length of Walk: 11 miles
Starting Point: Seathwaite Grid Ref: NY 235121
Route: Seathwaite, Stockley Bridge, Taylorgill Force, Styhead Tarn, Sprinkling Tarn, Ruddy Gill, Allen Crags, Esk Hause, Esk Pike, Ore Gap, Bowfell, Ore Gap, Angle Tarn, Ruddy Gill, Sprinkling Tarn, Styhead Tarn, Taylorgill Force, Stockley Bridge, Seathwaite.

Our previuos two walks had almost completed our Top 10, with only Bowfell left to be climbed. Today's planned walk had been Allen Crags and Esk Pike, with the intention of climbing Bowfell from Langdale in September.

I was aware that David had been studying the maps and pondering over the proximity of Bowfell to our next walk, but he had been too diplomatic to suggest any extension, especially with the added walk to Styhead Tarn and Sprinkling Tarn, which we had decided on Tuesday, so as we set out from Seathwaite yet again. nothing was said on the matter.

Today was raining before we even got out of the car, and even the resident cockerel had too much sense to be outdoors.

Sour Milk Gill Sour Milk Gill in Seathwaite
Towards Seathwaite Fell Rain towards Seathwaite Fell

The first part of the route, up to Styhead Tarn, was the same as our walk to Great Gable, and the conditions were quite similar too.

The only real difference was that David finally decided to use the footbridge in the valley rather than cross the stream.

Footbridge by Grains Gill David finally uses the footbridge
Stockley Bridge Stockley Bridge
Towards Taylorgill Force The path to Taylorgill Force and Styhead Pass from Stockley Bridge

David had found a possible lunch spot near Styhead Gill for today's walk when we walked here on Tuesday, but it was really only suitable if the weather was dry, which it was not today, so we shall have to save that spot for another, better, day.

Having said that, the mist was clearing much faster than on Tuesday, and we could almost see Great End and the Gables by the time we reached Styhead Tarn.

The Band on Great End from Styhead Tarn Looking towards the Band on Great End from Styhead Tarn with the path to sprinkling Tarn in the depression between Great End and Seathwaite Fell on the left

Having passed Styhead Tarn, our route took a different direction as we turned left before the Stretcher Box and followed the path running through the depression between Seathwaite Fell and Great End to Sprinkling Tarn.

The rain had also more or less stopped by now, so we sat down on a suitable rock looking back to Styhead Tarn and had our lunch there instead.

This route gave us good views of Lingmell and Piers Gill, and as we climbed higher on the path, we also had good views of the Gables behind Styhead Tarn - a magnificent sight.

Styhead Tarn Styhead Tarn, looking back towards Borrowdale, from our lunch spot by the path to Sprinkling Tarn
Lingmell Lingmell and Piers Gill
Great Gable and Green Gable with Styhead Tarn in front Great Gable and Green Gable with Windy Gap and Styhead Tarn from the path to Sprinkling Tarn
Path to Sprinkling Tarn The Path to Sprinkling Tarn
Then we got to Sprinkling Tarn. This tarn has always fascinated me, and it was absolutely wonderful, standing by the edge and looking all around at the glorious views, not least the imposing bulk of Great End behind.
Sprinkling Tarn Sprinkling Tarn looking towards Seathwaite Fell
Great End Great End from Sprinkling Tarn
Sprinkling Tarn Sprinkling Tarn
From Sprinkling Tarn Allen Crags, our first fell of the day, is visible straight ahead. As we had noticed on Sunday, having climbed this high, there is not a great deal more ascent required to reach the summit, and with this in mind we set off in that direction with a spring in our step (slight exaggeration there!!!).
Ruddy Gill The path to Ruddy Gill, with Allen Crags coming into view in the background
Glaramara Looking towards Glaramara across a small tarn

By the time we got closer to Allen Crags, there was no cloud on the summit, and it was lifting fast from Esk Pike, our second summit of the day.

We kept following the path past Ruddy Gill to below the Cross Shelter, where a junction offers the option of turning left to Allen Crags' summit, carrying on straight ahead to Angle Tarn and Stake Pass, or turning right to Esk Hause.

Allen Crags Allen Crags straight ahead
Esk Pike The cloud lifts from Esk Pike, as we walk along the path to Allen Crags
And by the time we took the left turn for Allen Crags, Bowfell was also tantalisingly visible beyond Esk Pike, for once out of cloud and almost beckoning us to visit it.
Bowfell and Esk Pike Bowfell and Esk Pike clearing of mist on the ascent of Allen Crags
The path to the summit of Allen Crags is crumbly, but not difficult, and it is not far from the main path so the summit is easily gained from here.
Allen Crags Ascent of Allen Crags
Allen Crags David at the summit of Allen Crags
Although there was never any threat of cloud on the summit itself, as we looked around, the clouds kept changing the visibility all around us, with the Langdale Pikes coming in and out of cloud, and the Gables and Great End likewise. Glaramara never quite came out of the cloud, but luckily for us Esk Pike remained clear all the time.
High Raise and the Langdale Pikes High Raise and the Langdale Pikes from Allen Crags' Summit
Glaramara Glaramara still in cloud from Allen Crags' Summit
Sprinkling Tarn Sprinkling Tarn from the summit of Allen Crags
From Allen Crags, we set off back to the path from Sprinkling Tarn, this time continuing straight across it, heading for Esk Hause.
Bowfell Bowfell from the descent to Esk Hause
Esk Hause Esk Hause, with the Scafells in cloud behind
Esk Hause and Great End Esk Hause and Great End
The Langdale Pikes and Rossett Pike The Langdale Pikes and Rossett Pike from the path to Esk Hause
By the time we got to Esk Hause, we finally saw what Ill Crag looked like, and it was obvious then that it was a long walk out from the path to the summit.
Ill Crag Ill Crag comes out of the cloud
From Esk Hause, we turned left, in the opposite direction to Sunday's walk to Calf Cove, and started ascending Esk Pike.
Esk Pike Esk Hause
Allen Crags Allen Crags from the ascent of Esk Pike
Esk Pike has a very rocky, and what I can only describe as an unusual summit. The final part to get to it involves clambering over a lot of boulders, and probably the best way of describing it is to say that it is different!
Esk Pike Esk Pike's summit ahead
Esk Pike David on Esk Pike's Summit

From Esk Pike, Bowfell really is very close, as the crow flies (though as anyone familiar with the Lakeland fells knows, the proverbial crow usually flies a lot straighter than than the paths to the summit!).

I could see David studying it, completely free from cloud for once, as we admired the views, and after thinking to myself for a few minutes about what my chances were of making it back to Seathwaite today if we went on, I decided that it was not fair to deny David his final Top 10 when he was so close to it, and I asked him if he wanted to go on.

After being interrogated for a few minutes on my general state of health, and how tired I was, I managed to convince him that there was an above average chance that I would make it down again.

There was absolutely no stopping him now and he was off like a rocket to Ore Gap!

Ore Gap and Bowfell David makes a dash for Ore Gap with Bowfell behind before I get a chance to change my mind
Ore Gap really is very red. I don't expect many people who are lost are in any doubt where they are when they get there.
Ore Gap Ore Gap
Allen Crags from Ore Gap Allen Crags from Ore Gap
True enough, the aforementioned crow does not take the same route to Bowfell as we had to, and besides the going is quite rough, so it took a lot longer than the relative distance would make you think when you look across from Esk Pike, but having set my stall out there was no turning back now.
Bowfell

The ascent of Bowfell from Ore Gap - Bowfell's summit is on the right

Bowfell Ascent of Bowfell
Esk Pike and Allen Crags Esk Pike and Allen Crags from the ascent of Bowfell
And it only gets rougher, the closer you get to the top. I am not sure if there is a path, but we didn't find it. It was every man (and woman) for themselves as we scrambled across the boulders to the summit, which we could never quite see.
Bowfell The final climb to the summit of Bowfell

And then suddenly, there it was! David had taken a slightly different route to me, and when I arrived, he was sitting by the summit cairn, looking incredibly pleased with himself.

I am not sure what I expected Bowfell's summit to be like, but whatever it was, it was nothing like I had imagined. This is not a good or a bad thing, it was just different, which surprised me a little because I have been fascinated with Bowfell for a long time, and have studied pictures and maps of it lots of times. Whenever I have passed it and looked up at it, I have always got the feeling that it was almost growling at me, usually with the summit in cloud, willing me to try and climb it. David says I am getting fanciful in my old age, which is probably true. But there you have it, I do get this affinity with mountains, which David finds slightly worrying and thinks I ought to perhaps mention to my doctor, and Bowfell is a prime example of this slightly odd personality disorder on my part.

Bowfell The top 10 complete! David at the summit of Bowfell
Crinkle Crags Crinkle Crags from Bowfell's Summit, with Pike O'Blisco on the left
The Langdale Pikes The Langdale Pikes from the summit of Bowfell
Langstrath The Langstrath Valley and High Raise from Bowfell's Summit
Scafell Pike, Ill Crag and Great End Scafell Pike, Ill Crag and Great End from Bowfell's Summit
The way back down to Ore Gap is rough, to say the least, and I was very tired. The first part of the descent requires short-legged species, such as myself, to use hands as well as legs to lower oneself (unless, of course, I missed the path again, which is a distinct possibility).
Descent from Bowfell with Allen Crags behind Descending from Bowfell with Allen Crags behind
After a long, long time we were back at Ore Gap. At the small summit cairn is a sign. David had a look at it and told me that it has a map with an arrow saying "You are here". Now I have never seen this anywhere else in the fells and, unless David was having me on and it said something entirely different, I am surprised that they should have such a map here of all places. The ground is so red that I would have thought it difficult to think you were anywhere else. Now, if only there was such a map on the Dodds, I could understand it!!!
Ore Gap David looking at the sign on Ore Gap (it says "You are here")

From Ore Gap we took a right turn down past Angle Tarn to the path between Allen Crags and Stake Pass. I was interested to see Angle Tarn in clear weather, as our only previous visit to it had been on the walking holiday in 2001, on a misty and rainy day, and there had been no views at all, in fact we could only just see the tarn.

Had I not been so tired, I would have loved to have taken a detour to the tarn.

Angle Tarn Angle Tarn comes into view, with Rossett Pike to the right and High Raise and the Langdale Pikes behind
Allen Crags Allen Crags from the path between Ore Gap and the path to Stake Pass
Angle Tarn Angle Tarn with Rossett Pike and the Langdale Pikes behind
Angle Tarn and Hanging Knotts Angle Tarn and Hanging Knotts
When we reached the Stake Pass path, we took a left turn back towards Allen Crags. I had a nasty surprise when I realised that I had overlooked (or sub-consciously suppressed?!) some countour lines before Allen Crags on the path, and by now I was very tired indeed. I lost count of the breaks required to make it to the top - I was that deflated by my discovery!
The path to Ruddy Gill The steep part of the path back to the cross shelter below Esk Hause, with Great End behind and Allen Crags to the right
But where there is a will, there is a way, and eventually I was very pleased to catch sight of the Cross Shelter below Esk Hause, from where the going got much more level, and would eventually start to descent.
The Cross Shelter below Esk Hause The Cross Shelter below Esk Hause
Back at the junction with the path to Allen Crags, we re-traced our steps past Ruddy Gill to Sprinkling Tarn and back to Seathwaite along the route we had taken on Tuesday to Great Gable.
Great Gable and Sprinkling Tarn Great Gable with Green Gable in mist and Sprinkling Tarn coming into view on the right from Ruddy Gill
Sprinkling Tarn Sprinkling Tarn
By Sprinkling Tarn By Sprinkling Tarn
By Styhead Tarn By Styhead Tarn
Great End, Broad Crag, Scafell Pike and Lingmell from Styhead Tarn Great End, Broad Crag, Scafell Pike (in cloud) and Lingmell from Styhead Tarn
Styhead Gill Styhead Gill
Borrowdale Seathwaite and Borrowdale from Styhead Gill above Taylorgill Force
Above Taylorgill Force Seathwaite from above Taylorgill Force
Walking back to Seathwaite Returning to Seathwaite
Seathwaite Farm Seathwaite Farm - the tea shop was well and truly closed (and the owners probably tucked up in bed) by the time we got back...

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